Understand instantly
  • Letters of a climber who attempted to climb Everest made public
  • The climber's letters refer to his slim hope of survival
  • G. Mallory was interested in mountaineering from an early age
References
Mallory
George Mallory and colleagues. Screenshot

Letters of a climber who attempted to climb Everest made public

If you ask a beginner or a more experienced climber about their life's dream, many of them would say climbing Everest.

This peak in the Himalayas, on the Nepal-Tibet border, which reaches 8 848.86 meters into the sky, is the highest in the world and the goal of many climbers.

For many years, Everest has been regarded as a symbol of human endeavor, courage, and exploration, but for many, it is also a place of tragic destiny[1].

Between 1953 and the present day, 8350 people have attempted to climb Everest by different routes, but far fewer have reached the summit. According to the latest figures, at least 2.6%, or 217 people, of those who have attempted to climb Everest have died.

Among them was the British climber George Mallory, the first person to make an unsuccessful attempt to reach the summit of Everest exactly 100 years ago.

During this tragic expedition, the climber detailed his journey in letters to his wife and other family members, which are now available to the public[2].

The climber's letters refer to his slim hope of survival

G. Mallory embarked on his expedition to the summit of Everest in 1924 with his friend and fellow mountaineering enthusiast Sandy Irvine and his team.

They both disappeared as they began the ascent of the third part of the mountain. Mallory's body was found in 1999, while Irwin's was never found.

However, the journeys of these men are better understood with the help of J. The letters written by Mallory during the journey but never sent were found on his body and made public by his alma mater, Magdalen College, University of Cambridge.

The letters, addressed to G. Mallory, were published in the United Kingdom's public library. Mallory's wife Ruth covers a variety of topics, from the First World War to G. Mallory's life in the 1950s to the death of his wife. Mallory's visit to the United States, but in one of the last letters, Mallory's first letter to Ruth and his last to Ruth. Mallory reveals more details of his trip to his wife and acknowledges the complexity of his situation[3].

One of the letters refers to his first attempt to climb Everest in 1921, while another letter refers to a research mission to the summit in 1922.

However, in his last letter to his wife, J. J. K., he wrote a letter to her. Mallory wrote in his last letter to his wife on 1922 that the chances of reaching the summit were only 1 in 50, and that climbers were hampered by high winds, snow, cold and lack of strength.

Historians and archivists who have reviewed the letters argue that they are important in capturing not only the history of mountaineering and Everest expeditions but also the realities of the wives of the mountaineers who attempted them.

One of the first expeditions to Everest. Screenshot
One of the first expeditions to Everest. Screenshot

G. Mallory was interested in mountaineering from an early age

G. Mallory was born in 1886 and was interested in mountaineering from an early age. When he was finishing his studies at college, one of his teachers invited him to climb the Alps.

His interest in the mountains only grew, and even the more experienced climbers noticed that the young man's ability to tackle difficult routes and use his mountaineering skills was unrivaled.

However, G. Mallory's mountaineering adventures had to be put aside for a while as he was sent to France to serve in the First World War.

After the war, he joined the Alpine Club and became one of its leading mountaineers, and when the group began to prepare for its first ascent of Mount Everest, he was a natural choice. He later joined other expeditions to Everest.

However, he was not destined to summit the mountain, although the journey is still shrouded in uncertainty. It is not clear whether any of the climbers from the 1924 expedition eventually made it to the summit[4].

Irvine's axe was found at around 8440 meters in the 1930s, and in 1975, a Chinese climber discovered a body described as that of an Englishman. In 1991, an oxygen canister from the 1930s was also found.

With these clues, a relief expedition set out in 1999 to find it. G. Mallory's body was found at an altitude of 8 155 metres and was presumed to have died from a fall; Irvine's body was never found.

It was hoped that the body of J. Irvine would also be found. Mallory's camera, which he had with him, would be found, and information would be provided on whether he and his colleague had reached the summit. However, only items such as an altimeter, a pocketknife and letters were found, but no camera was found. His body was buried where it was found.